
./^^ 



DIARY OF 

A SOUTHERN TOUR 
IN MIOWINTER 

BY 

L. E. NEWSOM 

TRAVELING AGENT 
LACKAWANNA LINE 




All Ki::iits Ucservod. 



.NSlo 



APOLOGY. 

We are publishing this letter at the solicitation of some of our friends, 
and not as a literary effort, so kindly withhold any criticism of our ex- 
pressions. We desire our friends to have a share in our pleasure. We tell 
of the things we saw as we saw tiaem and of the things we heard as we 
heard them, but we are not in a position to vouch for all the things we 
heard. 

Dear Friends — You said you desired to hear about our short trip to 
Florida, and over to Cuba. Well, it would take a week's visit for us to 
tell you of all the interesting things we saw, and heard about, and even 
at that, we uo doubt would forget to mention them all, so we are going 
to write you this letter and let you read it at your leisure, or not read 
it, as you may think best after you have "looked it over.'" 

We left Indianapolis at 3 :30 Monday morning, December 27, on a 
through train called the "Royal Palm," which runs through from Chicago 
to Jacksonville, Fla., via Big Four to Cincinnati, Queen & Crescent route, 
Cincinnati to Chattanooga and Southern Ry., Chattanooga to Jacksonville. 
There had been a fall of snow on Christmas eve, and there was con- 
siderable of it on the ground when we left home, but we saw very little 
signs of snow after we crossed the Ohio river at Cincinnati. We enjoyed 
the beautiful scenery along the Queen & Crescent (C, N., O. & T., P. Ry.). 
Between the several tunnels along this route there are many beautiful 
landscapes. The view at High Bridge, Ky.. at the junction of two rivers. 
Is one never to be forgotten. There are numerous little waterfalls among 
the hills, and the clear water of the Emery river, along the banks of 
which the road winds for several miles, is one continuous panorama of 
delightful scenery. It would make a good run picture for a "movie." 

Our first stop was at Chattanooga where we arrived at 5:00 p. m. 
on the 27th. and after securing our lodgings rnd refreshing ourselves with 
a good meal, we took a walk in the evening over the city. It is quite a 
"hustling" city, and one evidence of prosperity was the numerous moving 
picture shows. We noted quite n good deal of public improvements were 
in progress. 

December 28th : We visited Chickamauga Park in a "sight seeing" 
auto bus. This trip we found very interesting. The park is the site 
of the old battlefield and contains 7.000 acres. There are in all 314 monu- 
ments, erected to all the different companies who took part in the battle, 
both Federal and Confederate, and these monuments are supposed to mark 
the positions each company occupied during the battle. We could not help 
thinking how much better the conditions are now, when we are all united in 
peace, living under one flag as one happy family. Our brothers of the 
South visit us of the North and f-,re welcome, and we of the North visit 
our brothers of the South and are welcome. The veterans of both the 
blue and the gray meet on this old battlefield, grasp each other by the 
hand, and with hearts full of kindly emotion, and eyes filled with tears, 
talk over the "olden times." Such places as these must be seen to be 
appreciated. Our trip took us up over Missionary Ridge, which is almost 
entirely covered with beautiful residences and grounds. We expected to 
take the Lookout Mountain trip in the afternoon, but the weather was 
bad and so foggy that we did not go. Instend we took a trolley trip 
up the river route to North Chattanooga, where we saw the very beautiful 
Country Club grounds and some very beautiful homes. In all we found 
this a very delightful city. We took the train for Atlanta, Ga., in the 
evening, at which point we arrived during a downpour of rain, and 
we located at the nearest hotel for the night. 

December 2nth. The morning was clear and pleasant. We made a 
trolley trip out to Grant Park, which is a zoological garden, visited the 
panorama of the "Battle of Atlanta." This wonderful painting is surely 
worth seeing. It is hard to conceive of the master skill it must have 
taken to paint such a wonderful picture, especially when it had to be 
done in sections and these put together, so as to match perfectly. We are 
sorry it is not better taken care of and better patronized. We found 
Atlanta a very interesting and thrifty city. We were surprised to find so 
many skyscrapers and beautiful buildings. There are very many beautiful 
homes about Atlanta. We were sorry our time did not permit of a longer 
visit here. We left Atlanta in the afternoon of the 29th for Jackson- 
ville, Fla., over the Southern Ry. via Macon and Jesup. We passed many 
cotton fields and at almost every station we noted very many bales of 



cotton on the platforms and in the warehouses. The soil is of reddish 
cast, and we noted the fields were generally in terraces conforming to 
the contour of the grade in order to prevent its washing. We thought 
possibly some of the farmers of the North in hilly localities might adopt 
this mode of cultivating their land and prevent washing. 

We found the Southern Ry. employees very courteous in giving us 
a great deal of information about the country as we passed along. They 
pointed out a tree to us near the railroad on which they told us that 
two negroes had been hung the day before for the murder of a white man, 
a merchant. As one of the negroes was being led to execution something 
was noticed in the sleeve of his coat, and upon investigation it was found 
to be the watch that had belonged to the merchant. Up to this time 
the negro had stoutly protested his innocence. They then confessed and 
were strung up immediately. Summary punishment of crime may seem 
rude, but it has a very salutary effect upon some classes, and I well 
remember when in Iiidi.ina it seemed the only way of ridding certain 
communities of very undesirable citizens. Some of our friends in Bartholo- 
mew, Jackson and Jennings counties will remember. South of Atlanta 
we noticed the Southern Ry. is making quite extensive improvements in 
their road beds, laying heavy steel rails, ballasting, putting in concrete 
bridges, etc. On the train we met Mr. and Mrs. Dunn, of Madussa, 111., 
whom we found very interesting people. We arrived in Jacksonville at 
9 :35 p. m. of the 29th and were soon settled in our hotel for a good 
night's rest. This is our first night in Florida. 

December 30th. We arose early, found weather clear and pleasant. 
We took a trolley trip out to the ostrich and alligator farms. Here 
they hatch the ostrich and alligator eggs in large incubators. We saw 
ostriches of all ages. Quite a number six or seven months old, also sev- 
eral larger and older bii'ds. Some of the old ones they hitch to carts and 
drive around the ring while others are ridden as one would ride a horse. 
Performances at 10 a. m. and 3 p. m. The ostriches are caught and blind- 
folded before being harnessed or saddled. No matter how fractious he is 
before, as soon as he is blindfolded, he becomes very quiet. After he 
is harnessed the hood is removed. They do not seem to enjoy the work, 
however. This was the "off season" for plumage, but there were plenty 
of plumes on sale at various prices. At the alligator farm we found 
between 6.000 and 7.000 alligators of all ages, ranging from 500 years old 
to only a month. The old fellow is estimated at 500 years old and weighs 
750 pounds, is about seven feet long. He is occasionally harnessed to 
a small cart and driven by the keeper's 4-year-old boy. One tank, about 
20 feet long, was estimated to contain 3,000 to 4,000 young alligators, 
ranging from five to six inches in length. One pen contained the breeders, 
which are from 25 to 50 years old. They lay their eggs in holes in the 
sand and cover them lightly and in their natural state wait for the sun 
to hatch them. In the farm, however, the eggs are gathered and placed 
in the incubator, which holds several thousand eggs. They lay from 
June until November. One pen contained "wild alligators" or those 
recently captured in the swamps. They capture them by means of a 
"gaff hook," then tie up their jaws and bring them in. One alligator 
was trained to climb up a ladder, made of cleats nailed to a bo::ril to the 
top of a chute, and then "chute the chutes" down into the water on the 
opposite side. They seem to know their keei>ers. We noticed severnl 
of the larger ones were ''short" portions of their anatomy, either a foot 
or a tin. and were told they were crijipled either in fights with one another, 
or often in snapping their food when it is thrown' in, a fin or a foot 
is caught in the jaws of a comrade. The alligators hide is very valuable 
when tanned and is used in the manufacture of many kinds of lenther 
goods, as you will find out if you ever visit Jacksonville. This city owns 
its own water and lighting systems. Water rates, $1.00 per montli. mini- 
mum, by meter; electricity for power ;(t i\a-o cents per kilowatt. Jackson- 
ville is the "gateway" to Florida. Has many good hotels, both moderate 
priced, and those elegant enough for the most fastidious. The public 
buildings and parks are very fine. There are many miles of good paved 
streets and boulevards. 

December 31st. Weather warm and plensant. We left Jacksonville 
rt 9:30 a. m. for St. Augustine. Crossed the St. Johns river at 9:45 a. m. 
This stream has its source in the central part of Florida, and flows north 
and has its mouth just a few miles east of, Jack.sonville, at which 

©CI,A4274«I3 

m-\ 1916 



point it is navigable for ocean going vessels. We arrived at St. Augustine 
10 :30 a. m. Took a walk across the city and up to old Fort Marion. 
This is the oldest fort in the United States and was built by the Spanish. 
We were shown the site of what was supposed to be the "oldest house 
in the United States." The same was destroyed by fii'e a few years ago. 
They now have another "oldest house" fitted up in another street, which 
we presume answers the purpose. We saw Treasury street, which is 
said to be the "narrowest street" in the world, in some places being only 
six and one-half feet wide. In afternoon we took an auto trip to various 
points of interest, one of which w;is the ''Fountain of Youth," discovered 
by Ponce de Leon. The charge is 10 cents for a drink of this water, 
or rather they charge 10 cents to drive into the grounds and give you 
the drink. It tasted very much like any other water, but of course we 
have been feeling quite yoimg ev-jr since we drank it. We visited an 
orange grove where we were asked 10 cents each for the oranges. The 
reason for this is they are about the "first" oranges that are "seen grow- 
ing" in Florida. There is here also a very pretty clump of live oaks. The 
drive down to Lewis' Point, through a very dense original forest, is 
very pleasant. There are several oyster beds about Lewis' Point and it 
is frequented for oyster and clam l^akes. 

We left St. Augustine late in the afternoon for Daytona, where we 
arrived about 7 :40 p. m.. December 31st. 

Daytona, New Years Morning. So warm and pleasant we could not 
realize it was that time of the year. Daytona is a very pi-etty city and 
the winter home of quite a number of Hoosiers. We enjoyed a ride across 
the Halifax river to the wonderful beach. This beach must be seen to 
be appreciated to any extent. V/hen the tide is out it is from 60 to 
150 feet wide and extends a disti.nce of 40 miles along the coast. The 
wheels of an auto scarcely make a mark on the sand it is packed so 
hard and smooth. We were told that a lady in riding over the beach a 
short time ago remarked "isn't this wonderful, how long were they build- 
ing it?" The other members of the party, it is said, were almost over- 
come with suppressed merriment. Messrs. Boee and Shaffer were very 
kind to us and gave us many opportunities of seeing the vicinity 
of Daytona without expense. Should we ever desire a location there 
we believe they could be of valuable assistance in locating. The 
hotels, rooming houses and cottages in Daytona are plentiful, and the 
rates are reasonable. We found some people enjoy this climate, as it 
is not quite so warm as farther down the coast. Or at least it gets 
cooler at times. We visited severl points of interest. Flowing wells are 
numerous. The "supposed to be" largest live oak in Florida (now nearly 
dead). Admittance 10 cents and 25 cents worth of postal cards to get 
out. We picked some strawberries off the vine on New Year's Day, which, 
of course, is nothing new in this present day. We also saw most all 
kinds of vegetables growing in the various gardens which we visited. The 
"real estate agent" is very prolific in Florida, at least "all varieties" are 
grown here. He or she is a very necessary factor in the purchase of 
real estate in Florida, or they c;;n be of great assistance in locating a 
hotel or rooming house for you. If you get the right variety they will be 
appreciated. 

We witnessed an industrial parade given by the Industrial School 
for Colored People. This institution is doing very excellent work here 
among the colored people. It is making of them more desirable citizens. 
We left Daytona at 2:10 p. m. for Titusville, at which point we were 
met by Messrs. A. W. and C. E. Barrs, representing the Florida East 
Coast Fruit & Land Co. of Jacksonville, who are exploiting some land 
in the Indiana River Oi-ange Gro'e District. We were taken in an auto 
through some very fine orange groves out to their club house at Aurantia, 
which is about seven miles from Titusville. Here we were very hand- 
somely entertained without expt ise. We shall never forget our first 
sight of the orange groves in the Indian River Hammocks, with the very 
green foliage of the orange trees contrasting with the bright yellow of 
the fruit, and interpersed with the cabbage palms and the live oaks hung 
with the Spanish moss. We four 1 that the vei-j^ best quality of oranges, 
tangerines and grape fruit is gr )wn in this section. In fact we found 
this fruit commands a much higl er price than tliat grown in any other 
section of the state. We learned this not alone from persons interested 
here, but from others whose irterests were in other parts of the country. 



We learned from reliable sources tbat when the Indian river fruit conies 
on the market the price of fruit from other sections is generally lowered. 
In the evening we enjoyed a very good dinner prepared by Messrs, Barrs' 
excellent chef. We were served with various vegetables direct from the 
garden, native pork, which is like venison in flavor, and various kinds 
of fruit. It was certainly a New Year's dinner we shall long remem- 
ber, as it was our first experience in a warmer climate than Indiana at 
this season of the year. After dinner several of the neighbors came in 
and we silent a very pleasant evening around the tire in the large open 
fireplace, which is one of the attractions of this well equipped club house. 
It must be rememl)ered that even though the days ai'e warm the nights 
are cool and a little fire is not unpleasant. You can sleep under cover 
every night of the year. The Florida East Coast Fruitland Co, are doing 
quite a good deal of experimental work. They are anticipating breaking 
up a large tract of prairie land they have in the western part of the tract, 
sowing it to grass, drilling several artesian well.s, which will supply never 
failing quantities of water, and developing it as a grazing proposition. 
The supply of water here is from one of these wells which is 125 feet 
deep and the water rises to within a few feet of the top of the ground. 
After pumping for several days with a four horse power giis engine they 
only lowered the water a few inches, so the supply is practically inex- 
haustible. After being told of many things about the country which were 
new to us and the hour getting late we were shown to our rooms, which 
we found very comfortable, equipped with all modern conveniences. 

January 2nd. After enjoying a good night's rest we arose to find a 
very spring-like morning. The mocking birds were singing in the trees 
all about, and the squirrels were frisking about, roses in bloom and in 
all we felt as though we were "just dreaming." We almost had to "pinch" 
ourselves to find out if we were still on earth. After a hearty break- 
fast our hosts took us down to see some of the new groves in the ham- 
mocks. We found some fruit on some trees which had been set only a 
year ago, but this was an oversight as they are supposed to have all 
fruit plucked off and the trees not allowed to bear until five years old. 

In preparing this land for a grove it is only necessary to remove 
the underbrush, pile it up and let it decay; clear a spot large enough 
to make mounds a few feet across, on which to set the trees, leaving 
the larger trees and cabbage palms for shade to the young trees. This 
reduces the work of setting out a grove on this land to a minimum. 
While some of our party were looking over the grounds. Mr. A. W. Barrs, 
who was behind with the machine, reported that a deer came u]) to 
within a short distance of him, but he had no gun. 

We were very favorably impressed with the apparent fertility of the 
soil in this section, but we are going to see more of the state before 
we decide to locate. Jifter going back to the club house, and enjoying ;i 
very elaborate Imicheon. we made ready for an auto trip I>aek to Daytona 
in the afternoon. Mr. A. W. Barrs loaded up from his garden two liamiiers 
of lettuce, two of beans, a sack of peas, a sack of potatoes, and sixteen 
squirrels, which he had killed on New Y'ear's Day. which he was taking 
home to Jacksonville. With our luggage and four persons aboard we set 
out. and after a Tery delightful ride over the Dixie Higliway for tliirty- 
four miles, arrived at Daytona just after dusk. The Barrs left us 
here after having dinner with us, and proceeded on to Jacksonville, where 
they arrived about 11:00 p. m. We might add here that Tlorida is Ituildiu':; 
some very fine highways, which is making the state a veritable motorists' 
pax'adise: especially in the winter. Almost every county in the state is 
voting large amounts of bonds for this purpose, and it is surely a move in 
the right direction. 

January 3rd. We spent last night at the St. Oeorge Hotel, .•nid this 
morning we find the weather very pleasant. We had a delightful drive 
about Daytona. as the guest of Mr. Schafler. The drive on Ridgfwood 
avenue was especially delightful in the early morning, under the arch of 
live oaks for several miles. At 4:20 p. m. we again left Dnytoufi, bound 
for West Palm Beach, where we arrived at 9:80 p. m. jind secured lodgings. 

January 4th. Weather clear and pleasant. Went over to Palm Beach, 
which lies on the Keys east of the river, and is i-eached by either ferry 
or bridge. Here we found splendid hotels, with beautiful grounds, also 
many very fine residences, and delightful drives and walks. We spent 
some time in wandering .about, then we secured a sedan and took a ride 



up to the "Garden of Eden," which is a very beautiful privately owned 
place covering several acres, set out in many kinds of tropical flowers, 
shrubs and trees. There were very few tourists here at this time, as 
the "season" does not open here until about January 15th, and remains 
open about sixty days. This place is noted for its many cocoanut palms. 
Many of the drives, especially along the river, are lined with these 
stately palms. There are also many Australian pines here, as well as the 
royal palm. After spending a veiy pleasant day here, we boarded the 
train at 7:40 p. m. for Miami, where we arrived about 10:00 p. m., and 
took up our quarters at the Seminole Hotel, which, though not a fash- 
ionable place, we found very comfortable, pleasant and centrally located. 
The new manager, Mr. Jewett. has had this hotel remodeled, and it is 
one of the best moderate priced hotels in the city. 

January 5th. This morning we find the weather somewhat warmer, 
but very pleasant. We had to don summer clothes. We took a short walk 
in the early morning and found the air very exhilarating. Miami is 
located on Biscayne Bay, which is separated from the Atlantic Ocean 
by a narrow key which a few years ago was mangrove swamp, and sand 
beach, but through the efforts of our fellow citizen, Mr. Carl G. Fisher, 
and some of his wealthy associates, this key has been converted into a 
very beautiful residence park. The bay here is spanned by a bridge two 
and one-half miles long. There is also a ferry line operated between the 
city docks and the beach. On the key is Mr. Fisher's beautiful new home 
and spacious ground. The mangroves were cut off down near the water, 
and then by means of dredges the sand from the bottom of the bay was 
pumped on to them and they were thus covered up, and the land was 
formed. There is an auto bus line leaves Miami at frequent intervals, 
going over the bridge, down through the park to the beach, making a 
trip of about seven miles for a fare of 10 cents, or a round trip of 
fourteen miles for 20 cents. The fare on the ferry is the same. Anyone 
visiting Miami should not fail to take this auto trip. The trip over to the 
park by means of the ferry is also very enjoyable. There is good bath- 
ing at the beach, also a very long board and cement walk along the 
beach. 

A few miles out in the ocean from this key is said to be some of the 
best king mackerel fish beds in the world and one afternoon on a trip 
over on the ferry we met nearly a hundred fishing boats, all coming in 
loaded with from 75 to 200 pounds of fish each, the fish weighing from 
5 to 35 pounds each. This was certainly a grand sight for those who 
have not seen such things before. The cost of a day's fishing with one 
of the boats is from $15 to $25, and then you cannot sell the fish you 
catch, but you can give them to the guide, who is a licensed fisherman, 
can sell them to the fish market, where they bring about 3 cents per 
pound. We did not go fishing. We were told that the water is very 
rough at times, and those not accustomed to the sport are very apt to 
get seasick, and will have to come in. We were told that there are about 
500 men engaged in the fishing business about Miami. We presume this 
includes some of those who are fishing for "suckers." We drove out to 
some of the gardens in the afternoon, where we found them picking large 
quantities of strawberries for market. One lady told us they would not 
accept $2,000 per acre for their twenty acre garden farm. She claimed 
they netted $5,000 annually. They looked very prosperous. 

January 6th. Weather warm, 70 degrees in the shade at noon; how- 
ever there is a good breeze most of the time. We drove out to Dr. A. R. 
Harrold's place this morning, but did not get to see him, as he was 
back on his farm some distance from the house, but Mrs. Harrold received 
us verj^ cordially, and said they would call in the city for us in the 
afternoon. Dr. Harrold was formerly of Indianapolis. Mrs. Harrold 
was formerly Miss Yawter, also of Indianapolis. They called for us in 
the afternoon, and we went out to their grove, which now practically .joins 
the corporation line of Miami. Tl.ey have a very beautiful location at the 
intersection of two paved streets. The Citrus road, which runs directly 
in front of their place, is the main thoroughfare from Miami to 
Cocoanut Grove, a suburb of very wealthy residents. The drives about 
Miami are very extensive and befiiitiful. After looking over Dr. Harrold's 
subdivision of 80 acres and spending a very en.ioyable evening, hearing 
them tell of the wonderful things one experiences in this climate, they 
took us back to the hotel, after making us agi-ee to Stny over another day 
and let them take us to Cocoanut ■ Grove on' the morrow. 



January 7tli. Clear and pleasant. Dr. and Mrs. Ilarrold were in 
town early with their machine and we were spinning on our way down 
to Cocoanut Grove. After motoring about the country for an hour or two, 
we left the machine at the roadside and walked down a trail which runs 
parallel with the beach for over a mile, passing through many spacious 
private grounds, where we saw beautiful lagoons, lined with rows of 
royal palms, cocoanut palms, flowers and shrubbery of endless varieties. 
Tropical plants from every country in the known world. It was cer- 
tainly a very pleasant path we trod for about two hours. In returning 
to Miami, we passed the Deering place, which is under course of construc- 
tion. It is to be a very large palace, built along old Spanish architectui'al 
lines. The building will cover several acres of space. The grounds cover 
over 100 acres and are being carved right out of the forest. It will 
cost several million dollars. Some of the material used in construction 
is brought from the old Spanish castles in Cuba. There will be many 
acres of flower gardens. A consignment of plants and bulbs just received 
we were told invoiced $48,000. This, place is about three miles from 
Miami and about a mile from Dr. Harrold's home. Afternoon — We took 
a boat ride about eight miles up the Miami river and canal. The little 
steamer carried about 30 or 40 people. On this trip we could get some 
idea of the Everglades of which there are several million acres, and 
so much eifort has been made to drain and develop this land. The fall 
from Lake Ochachobee, seventy miles from Miami, the head of the Miami 
Canal, to the sea level is only about eighteen feet, so that the matter 
of draining this vast but fertile region is a great problem. However, it is 
being solved and in course of time will be a success. We stopped at a 
very beautiful estate belonging to an Illinois man. The walk over these 
grounds was very interesting. Here is quite a large cocoanut grove. We 
found the Miami river up as far as the tide water reaches is lined with 
mangroves so thick that alligators would have trouble getting through them. 
We might add that there are four drainage canals from Lake Ochachobee 
to the coast, and in time there will be others cut through. 

Saturday, January 8th. Made a tour over some of the city, and in 
the afternoon took another ride on the ferry over to the beach to watch 
the fishermen returning with their catch. We found several people in 
bathing in the .surf. We did not venture in as we had been told of the 
many "sharks" in these waters. In fact a fisherman had landed a 40O- 
pouud cub shark just the day before while he was out fishing, and the 
sight of this monster cub on the dock caused cold chills to run down our 
spine; we didn't need a bath just then. They told us that occasinnnlly a 
shark was killed which would weigh SdO to l.OdO ixmnd.s. We viewed the 
channel, which is now- being dredged in order to admit ocean-going 
vessels to the municipal docks at Miami. This work will now go forward 
to completion as the bonds for the building of the dock, which will be 
Miami's share of the expense, have been authorized. This will place INIianii 
on the map as a seaport, and our prediction is that she will be the "Los 
Angeles" of the Atlantic coast. 

Sunday, January 9th. Clear and pleasant. Although we had promised 
ourselves not to travel on Sunday, we found that the time was passing 
so rapidly, we decided to leave Miami this morning for Key West. This 
is a journey over "Over Seas Extension" of the Florida East Coast Kail- 
Avay. and when taken in daylight is one never to be forgotten. Mr. Flagler, 
the' Rockefeller of the South, was very ambitious to ride into Key West 
in his own private car on his own railroad. This he realized about two 
years previous to his death. He was some years in getting engineers 
who would even say it was possible to )mild this extension, but he finally 
secured the services of a young man who deemed it feasible, and the 
feat of building a railroad over tidewater is now an accomplished fact. 
This piece of railroad beggars descrijition, and to those interested in such 
things it must be seen to be appreciated, as the enormity of the under- 
taking cannot be comprehended, especially by a layman. We were told 
that portions of this line cost over a million dollars per mile to construct 
it. There are places where we were out of sight of land. This iiortion 
of the road was constructed through water twenty and thirty feet deep. 
where half the time the tide flows into the gulf and the other half 
flows to the Atlantic with a current of from 10 to 1L' miles jter h(mr. 
Along portions of the line concrete retaining walls h:i\e lieen constructei! 
and embankments are being made by filling in lietween these walls with 



marl from the bottom of the ocean; some fifteen ocean-going dredges are 
now working on this line of the road but it will take several years to 
entirely complete it. With this road into Key West and the P. & O. car 
ferries operating between Key West and Havana cars can be loaded at any 
station in the United States or Canada and forwarded to any station in 
Cuba without transfer or vice versa. And we do not believe that the 
day is far distant when sleepers will be run through from New York and 
Chicago, carrying passengers through from these points to Santiago de 
Cuba without change. We arrived at Key West about 6:00 p. m. and 
stopped at the Overseas Hotel, which we found a very good moderate 
priced place and very comfortable. 

January 10th. Showers during the night. The morning clear and 
pleasant. As our boat for Havana does not leave until 9:30 a. m., we 
spent a few hours visiting about the city, navy yards, turtle farm. etc. 
The main industry of Key West is cigar manufacturing. This city is 
located on an island about five miles long by one mile wide. The navy 
yards did not look to us like a very formidable protection, especially 
against modern big guns, and when we see our miles upon miles of defense- 
less coast on both sides of Florida, this small station of Key West seemed 
to us vei-y inadequate. 

We left Key West at 10:;:50 a. m. on the steamer ''Olivette." being one 
hour late waiting on rail connection fi-om New York Cits'. We were soon 
out of the harbor, where the water is a vei-y beautiful deep blue, but it 
was not long before we saw the line of the gulf stream, where the water 
is black as ink. AYe are told that this gulf stream flows out at the rate 
of about ten or twelve miles per hour, and where there is a wind in the 
opposite direction from the current, it makes a very rough sea, or as 
the mariner calls it, "a choppy sea." We found it so, and it was not 
long before most of the i:^5 passengers on board were "turning in" or 
''turning out." Mrs. N. fared pretty well until she went below, then 
she became seasick. (This confidentially.) And I found her in her 
state room sometime after, and she remained there for about three hours. 
When I went down to the dining room for dinner there were only three 
other guests at the table. This is where the steamship company gets 
ahead. They get their pay whether the guests eat or not. and the most 
of them do not. I took Mothersill's seasick remedy and I believe it is a 
sure preventative for seasickness. Some people who know, say the voyage 
from Key West to Havana is about like crossing the English Channel. We 
are told that the water here is very deep, ranging from 1,000 to 9.000 feet: 
in fact there are places that have never been fathomed. About 4:30 p. m. 
we came in sight of land, being the hills around Matanzas, and soon every- 
body was on deck again. Al)out 5:00 o'clock we came in sight of Moro Cas- 
tle, and ~>:'.M) we were passing through the narrow channel into Havana 
Harbor. We had read of the sinking of the Maine, and now we were passing 
over the very sjiot where the shij) went down. There is something strangely 
thrilling about this entering Havana Harbor. While the scene cannot 
be said to be grand, yet it is so mildly beautiful that it impresses one 
with a sense of grandeur. It is possibly the history connected with the 
place which makes it more interesting than it would otherwise be. We 
were soon boarded by the health officers' crew, passed the medical examina- 
tion, released and then off to tlie custom house, where our baggage under- 
went the usual inspection. One thing we noticed — that the Spanish speak- 
ing passengers who landed were released before the American tourists were 
attended to. We found later that it is customary in all ports for home folks 
to land first. The hotel runners were vei-y numerous and very insistent. 
Unless you know Avhere you want to go before you reach Havana you 
will laiow less after these runners get hold of you. Our advice to anyone 
visiting Havana, is to select your hotel in advance, and go directly to it, 
even though you may be informed that it has "been closed." as we 
cannot vouch for the veracity of the hotel runners at Havana. We made 
our first stop at the Brooklyn, but as they would not give us European 
rates except for one day, we moved to the Saratoga, which we found 
very pleasant, and the rates reasonable. There are plenty of good hotels 
in Havana, and the most fastidious can be suited with entertainment. 
On the eve of our arrival we did some reconnoitering. We were much 
interested in tlie cafes or coffee houses, where people congregate n\ the 
evening and drink black coffee, talk, iilay various games, and in some places, 
listen to music or watch the show. We found the "flower sh-l" verv much 



in evidence on tlie streets, selling various kinds of flowers, roses, violets, 
pansies, etc. Tlie prices were very reasonable and a vei-y nice bnncli of 
roses can be liad for from tlve to ten cents. 

January 11th. Weather clear and warm. Havana is a city of about 
500,000. The Prado, the main street, runs the entire length through the 
center of the city. It is wide and has a park in the center the full length 
of the street. With the exception of one or two other streets, the streets 
are narrow, and only wide enough for two vehicles to pass, and only 
two and one-half feet of side walk on each side. The old Spanish archi- 
tecture on every side makes so much of sameness in appearance of the 
streets thtit a stranger needs to watch closely or he will soon lose his 
way. However, it is very easy to find the way back as all street cars 
pass Prado Central Park, and by taking any car, going in any direction, 
you will be brought back tu this central station, as all street car lines run 
in loops. Or you can call a cab at any point, show him your hotel card, 
and for 10 cents be driven to your hotel. We had a card of introduction 
to the Methodist Missionary, the Peverend Clemmens, Virtudos 10, where 
we had been told, we might secure the services of a young man as guide; 
as we were making our way to this mission we discovered in a room 
directly on the street, only a block from the Prado, a dairy. There 
were ten cows and seven young calves in the store. The walls were 
tiled, the floor concrete, and everything was perfectly clean and white. 
The attendants were dressed in white. The cows were feeding on katflr 
corn fodder, from an iron rack along the wall. They looked very clean 
and sleek. We asked for a glass of milk and one of the attendants took 
a quart tin with a strainer over the top and stripped a couple of cows, 
poured the milk in two glasses, and we drank it with a relish. We found 
it of excellent quality, jersey milk, for which we paid 5 cents a glass. 
We understand there ai-e only four of these dairies remaining in the city. 
They were formerly very common. We afterward made regular visits to 
this dairy, as we found the milk was very refreshing, and Mrs. N. enjoyed 
it very much. On arriving at the mission we found the young man had 
left a few days before, so we did not get our guide, and all our trips 
were made alone. The Reverend Clenuuens insisted on our seeing his 
pupils assembled in the chapel and we only waited a short time until they 
were all marching in to the music. The piano lieing played by one of the 
native teachers. There were over 100 children. They sang their songs 
in Spanish, and the Reverend Clemmens read and talked to them in 
Spanish. They answered the questions he put to them, and seemed to 
be very bright and attentive. There is a Baptist and also a Presbyterian 
Mission in the city, all doing good work. We are told that English is 
to be taught in all the public schools in Cuba as fast as they can secure 
English speaking teachers. We next took a trolley ride out to the ceme- 
tery and through some of the residential sections and returned via the 
bay front. We were told that the custom of burial is that the rich are 
buried in the morning, the middle class during the middle of the day 
and the very poor between 3:00 and 5:00 p. m. The graves are leased 
and the payments increase each year the amount of the first year's rent, 
so that when the living find it impossible or are unwilling longer to 
assume the burden of iiaying this rent, the dead ones are taken up and 
their bones thrown on the "bone pile." It is a case of "pay your rent 
or move out." The very poor are usually thrown into a trench and the 
bodies covered with quicklime. Persons wishing to give their dead a 
semi-decent burial can rent a box or cotfin in which to transport the corpse 
to the cemetery, where the body is removed from the coffin, placed in the 
grave, and the coffin is taken back to rent to the next customer. For 
this we understand the charges range about $10.00. In the afternoon we 
took a trolley trip of thirty miles out to Providencia, a sugar mill. 
We saw the cane plantations, where the cane was being stripped and 
loaded into carts and brought to the railway stations, where it is weighed, 
then loaded on rack cars to be taken by the engines to the mill. There 
it is hoisted by a crane out of the cars into a carrier, taken through a 
chopper which "cuts it into short lengths, after which it passes between the 
rollers, and eventually every particular of sweet is extracted. The iiulp is 
then passed through a dryer and carried to the furnaces where it con- 
stitutes the only fuel necessary to oi)erate the entire mill and evaporate 
the juice into syrup and raw sugar. We were told that the capacity of 
this mill is about 3.000 three-hundred-pound bags per day of the raw 



sugar. We uiulerstniul no sug.-ir is refined in Cuba. The entire process 
was very interesting. We were told the cane harvest is for about sixty 
days twice a year, and a tleld of cane will continue to produce without 
replanting for about ten years. Then the ground should be broken up 
and used for truck, corn, tobacco, etc., for about four years. It is then 
I'eset to cane. Some of the fields, we were told, had been thus cultivated 
for 300 years. This plantation consisted of 6,000 acres belonging to the 
mill owner, and about 6,000 acres more of contracted land. Oxen are used 
almost exclusively in cultivating the soil and in harvesting the crops. 
They are much more economical than other beasts of burden, as they can 
live well on cane blades and the refuse of other crops. The Mexican 
pony is very much in evidence in Cuba. He is used for riding and for 
pack pony. We noticed that a great many of these ponies were pacers 
and we would very much have liked to ride them as they seemed to be 
easy riders. The soil of Cuba ranges from black loam to reddish sand. 
The cane lands are of a reddish cast. They are certainly very rich. It 
is no wonder our Spanish friends did not like to give us this island. 
We saw some very beautiful gardens with almost every kind of vegetables 
growing one could imagine. The Chinese, we were told, do a good deal 
of the gardening about Havana. Cabagges grow to 20 to 23 pounds per 
head. Yams 30 to 40 pounds. Pineapples are raised extensively. Cocoa- 
nuts grow in abundance and we saw a great many banana fields. We 
took some views of some very tall royal palms. We saw the thatcli huts 
of the farmers, and one tiling is notable for its absence, that is. the barns. 
In this climate of perpetual spring, the barn is not necessary. The only 
thing necessary is the shelter from the rain and sun, and a thatched or tile 
roof is surticient. The houses in the towns are generally covered with 
tile, some of them with very pretty effects. Goats and donkeys are numer- 
ous, and the milk from both is used quite extensively. Babies may be 
often seen nursing the goats. This precludes the necessity of a "wet 
nurse" in the family. Children are plentiful and seem to be easily raised. 
They require little or no clothing and their food is readily obtained from 
the goat, the garden, donkey or cow. In the evening we decided to try 
a Spanish hotel dinner, price 75 cents. The soup was very good, but 
we stalled on the fish, as it had been cooked scales and all. The meats 
were fair, but an American must have his taste educated for this kind 
of fare. We did not feel like spending more time or money on this 
part of our education. After dinner in the evening we strolled about the 
parks, and at one place we sat down to listen to the band music. Soon 
we were approached by an attendant in uniform and asked for "Teekets," 
and as we had none, we were informed it would cost us 5 cents each. 
We passed on. When we reached our room at the Saratoga we decided 
to measure the wall to the ceiling and found it about twenty feet high. 
Our room had two sets of doors, one set on the outside, opening out, 
which reached half way to the top. the other set of folding doors two 
inches thick, opening in, were fitted with heavy fasteners, so we could 
barricade ourselves in. The windows are also protected by iron bars 
and two sets of shutters. This building was once an old Spanish castle, 
and built for fortification. Our room was furnished with two beiis, one wasli 
stand, a dresser and a very massive wardrobe. The furniture must have 
been (with the exception of the beds) hundreds of years old. The wash 
stand being fitted with a marble wash basin with a pail below, and the 
water being supplied from a tank above, located behind the mirror. In 
its day it was no doubt a model of convenience. At nearly every turn 
in Cuba the tourist will find something amusing, and he will find it is no 
place for a grouch. We found our pillows filled with cotton instead of 
feathers, but otherwise our beds were comfortable, and we slept well under 
cover as the nights are always cool in Cuba. 

We must not omit to tell you about. the railroads in Cuba. The 
Cuba Railway running from Havana to Santiago de Cuba is very well 
equipped and outside of the fact that all employees speak Spanish you 
would not know but that you were traveling on a first-class road in our 
own state. On their through trains they have sleepers and electric lighted 
coaches, etc. The trolley systems are well operated and are continually 
being extended, the longest line l)eing to Matanzas. a distance of sixty 
miles. From the elegant new union station in Havana, from which all 
trains, both steam :ind electric, depart, there is run an aggregate of 325 
passenger trains daily. The freight traffic is also very good and we Avere 



Informed the roads were suffering from a scarcity of box cars in whicli to 
handle the sugar traffic which at present is the heaviest they ever had. 

On our trip to Provideucia we were accompanied by an official of 
the trolley line, who gave us much valuable information regarding the 
growth of the country. Especially has its development been rapid since 
their emancipation from Spanish rule. In the rural districts we noticed 
that on every train and at every station were the rural guards or militia 
on police duty. As we saw very little drunkenness or disorder in any way 
we asked why it was necessary to maintain such a force, and were in- 
formed that there are still some factions which may develope trouble 
at any time. There are no more bull fights allowed, Init cock fights are 
a prevalent pastime and at nearly every village we noticed the "cock 
pits" and were told on Sundays these were well patronized. Cuban peo- 
ple are anxious to learn American ways, and we understand welcome 
American teachers in every capacity. Many of their people, we were told, 
are now receiving an education "in the states." 

January 12th. Weather clear and pleasant. After our morning visit 
to the dairy we went for another trolley ride out to the village of 
Guanajay, about 25 miles from Hav;ina, through a very fertile valley. 
where we saw wonderful gardens, fields of pine;ip]iles. tobacco and bananas. 
This was a very pleasant ride. At Gun na jay we had the fortune to get 
some snap shots of a coral fisherman with his train of pack ponies carry- 
ing his load of coral to market. We also snapped some nude youngsters. 
We had some trouble in finding an interpreter in this village. There is 
only one man in the town who sjieaks English. We returned at noon 
and took another trip on a steam road in the afternoon to Batabana, the 
port on the south side of Cuba, from which the boats leave for the Isle 
of Pines. We saw a good many cane plantations on this trip and many 
places where they were plowing for a new crop. The Cubans make their 
own crude plows, which they prefer to those of tlie American m;inufac- 
turers. In Havana we found several all night theaters and the entertain- 
ments are usually varied. Some of the tlieaters : re built on the coliseum 
style and refreshments are served during the performances. Lottery tickets 
are sold on the streets, on the train, at the hotels, in the theaters, in fa.ct. 
eveiywhere. 

January 13th. We arose early and visited Havana's great daily 
market. This is said to be the most wonderful daily market in the world, 
and that every known kind of vegetables or fruit can l)e bought in this 
market any day in the year; strawberries, green corn, ripe tomatoes, 
cucumbers, cabbage, peas, beans, trojiical fruits, nuts, in fact you can buy 
anything to eat in this place. Next we went to the steamship office to 
make our reservations and get our release. It costs 25 cents to get a 
permit to leave Cuba and you cannot leave without this release. When 
we were leaving the hotel we \Aere asked liow we liked Cuba, and we 
replied to the question with the following lines: 

Oh, Cuba is a wonderful place, 

Surroimded by a wonderful sea. 

Her people, a wonderful race. 

With hearts full of kindness so free. 

Her valleys are gai'dens of beauty. 

With flowers and fruits they abound. 

Her mountains like sentinels on duty 

These beautiful valleys surround. 

Oh, Cuba, thou gem of the ocean. 

We hope to see of thee more. 

Our hearts are filled with emotion, 

As we leave thy beautiful shore. 

May heaven bless thee forever. 

With thy banner of freedom unfurled. 

May the fame of thy mountains :;nd river. 

Reach the uttermost parts of the world. 
We sailed out of Havana Harbor at 10:40 a. m. on the steamer 
"Mascotte" and in a few hours were again crossing the gulf stream, on 
our return to Key West where we arrived about 5 :30 p. m.. and after 
a stop of about two hours, during which time we were served with dinner 
on shipboard, we started on our voyage toward Port Tampa, where v»'e 
were due to ari-ive at 11:30 a. m. the following day. Mrs. N. took Mother- 



sill and was not troubled with a particle of seasickness on our return trip. 
January 14th. On board steamship Mascotte. Morning foggy. Dur- 
ing the night we had a beautiful view of "Moonlight on the Ocean." One 
can scarcely forget such a beautiful sight. The moonlight makes a veri- 
table bar of silver through the water. During the latter part of the night 
we encountered a heavy fog. and all hands were busy in the captain's 
quarters. The fog horn kept up its blasts and there was very little 
"rest for the wicked." The wireless also added its share to the general 
racket. The fog was so dense that the view of the water from the deck 
was almost entirely obscured. At 9:30 a. m. we sent a wireless message 
to our home office at Indianapolis, which we afterward found reached 
there at about 10:30 a. m., or in about 30 minutes after it was sent from 
the ship, allowing for the difference in the time. We were about 150 
miles from Tampa where the message was transferred to Western Union 
and forwarded to Indianapolis. The wireless is certainly a wonderful 
invention. 

On board steamship Mascotte we met Father Rudolph Stahley of 
Sauabal Island near Port Meyers. He was very kind to us and wished to 
be remembered to his Indianapolis friends. He was here for several years. 
We arrived at Port Tampa 12 :30 p. m., one hour late, delayed on ac- 
count of the fog. We did not undergo custom inspection at Port Tampa, 
as this ordeal was gone through during our stop at Key West. On land- 
ing at Port Tampa we took a train for Tampa, where we arrived at 1 :30 
p. m. It seemed very good to be back in the U. S. A. once again, even 
though we had only been no farther away than Cuba and that only 
for a few days. We had heard many persons who have traveled in foreign 
lands tell of how glad they were to reach their home land, but this 
feeling can only be appreciated by those who have experienced it. You feel 
like shouting ""Good Old U. S. A., How We Love Thee!" We found 
Tampa a very large city. The tourists here are principally from the 
central states, and we met Hoosiers at almost every turn. Around Tampa 
and St. Petersburg are very many good grape fruit groves, and celery 
farms are quite nuiaierous. In the afternoon we made a trolley trip out 
to Sulphur Springs, three miles. This is a very large spring, in fact, it is 
more like a small river coming up out of the ground. The force of the 
water is so strong that a person swimming in the pool cannot sink even 
though he make no effort to float. One of the stories we heard of Tampa 
was of three Italians who paid $3,000 per acre for three acres of celery 
land and paid .$7,200 the first year with the proceeds from the farm. 
"Some celery." However, such things as these are not unusual in Florida. 
January 1.5th. Weather clear and pleasant. Went up to New Port 
Rickey, a new town thirty miles from Tampa and about eight miles from 
Tarpon Springs. Several persons from Noblesville, Ind., have intere.sts 
at this place. It is on the Dixie Highway and a very pretty location, 
only a short distance from the gulf. It is on the Chootee river also, 
which is quite a good sized stream. There is excellent fishing here, and 
game is very plentiful only a short distance away. We very much re- 
gretted not having more time to enjoy these siiorts. At Tarpon Springs 
we heard of the mullett fishing, which is done with nets, a short distance 
out in the gulf. 3,000 pounds at a draw is not uncommon, and we are 
told that one fisherman is said to have hauled 4.700 pounds at one draw 
not very long ago. This was told us by IMr. Price, of Linton. Ind., who 
is going into the smoked-fish business at New Port Richey, and expects 
to soon be able to supply us with some very excellent smoked fish. The 
new railroad on which we traveled today made our journey very tiresome. 
The engine was a "wood burner" and they had to stop and take on wood 
two or three times in the thirty miles run. We were glad to get back 
to our hotel at Tampa. The conductor told us that this was his first 
trill during the week which he had made without having his engine de- 
railed at least once on the tri]). After supper we went down on Main 
street in Tampa and joined the "procession" of promenaders. Bought a 
few souvenirs and met a few friends. This is a great cigar manufacturing 
city. The toliacco is brought here from many parts of the world : some 
from Kentucky and Virginia, but it is all manufactured into "Clear 
Havana Cigars." 

January IGth. We left Tanqia this morning, boinid for Eustis, a town 
in the interior of Florida, as we wanted to see as much of the state 
as possible. Eustis is in Lake county, and the county is well named. 



as It has over 1,200 lakes withiu Its boundary. There are numerous 
orange groves in this vicinity, in fact, one of the largest groves in the 
state near Wildwood, is said to contain 1,700 acres; it belongs to a Mr. 
King, of Cincinnati, with Mr. Johnson, his resident manager. From this 
grove are shipped some of the famous "King Oranges." At Eustis we were 
the guests of Mr. and Mrs. E. L. Ferran, formerly of Decatur county, 
Indiana, but who have been residents of this place for thirty years. Mr. 
Ferran is quite well to do, and his business interests are quite extensive. 
He is well liked in his community, and his family is well respected. 
They would not think of ever returning to this climate. Mr. Ferran says 
that from his farm a short distance from Eustis, there is one point from 
which he has a view of twelve lakes, however, this is a dry county. There 
are five lakes in one township, and those are not small lakes either. The 
fishing about this place is excellent, and they can fish all the year round. 
They have ice here, but it is made with a machine, and Mr. Ferran owns 
the machine, and the weather man never interferes with his market. We 
hope to be able to visit this section again sometime. 

January 17th. Weather clear and pleasant. We left Eustis this moi-n- 
ing via Taveres & Wildwood for Jacksonville. The railroads through this 
section are built around these lakes, and it is hard to tell whether you 
are backing up or going ahead. You may be going east and at the same 
time headed for the west. We arrived in Jacksonville about 5 :00 p. m. 

January 18th. Weather fine. Mr. A. W. Barrs took us for an .-uito 
trip about Jacksonville, which we very much appreciated, as we did not 
see veiy much of the city on our south-bound trip. In the afternoon we 
paid a visit to the Union Terminal Warehouse, where we met Mr. Gay. 
who showed us over the building and explained to us the service they 
rendered. They are served by four railroads, also have access through 
these railroads to three steamship docks — the Clyde line, the Merchants 
and Miners Transportation Co. and the Maxwell line. In the evening we 
attended the Orange Festival and the "Mile Dinner." This is so called 
because the tables are placed along the street next to the curb for a dis- 
tance of a mile, and had the weather been not quite so cool the table 
would no doubt have been filled up from one end to the other, as it was. 
they only had about 2.00<> guests. The mayor's convention was in session, 
and the ninyors attended the banquet. The menu was soup, salads, oranges 
and ice cream, 50 cents per plate. 

January 19th. We left Jacksonville at 7 :10 this morning for home. 
We put on our overcoats for the first time since leaving Jacksonville on 
December 31. There was a light frost last night, and we find considerable 
difference in the climate at Jacksonville and that at Miami or points in 
southern Florida. We arrived home at 12:10 p. m.. January 21st, and feel 
that we have had one of the most enjoyable trips of our lives. There are 
a great many more things we might tell you about, which might be of 
more or less interest to you. but I expect you are tired of reading this 
"stufi'" ere this, but if ever you take a notion to talve a trip South, you 
will never regret taking this one. we are quite sure. We hope to some 
day see more of Cuba anyway. With kind I'egnrds. we are. 

Yours truly, 

MR. AND MRS. L. E. NEWSOM, 
March 1, 1916. Indianapolis, Ind. 

P. S. — We desire to thank our railroad friends for the valuable in- 
formation they gave us. which contributed so much to making our trip 
so pleasant. Among these are Mr. Hebblethwaite. D. P. A.. Q. & C. Route. 
Indianapolis; Mr. J. C. Conn. D. R. A.. Q. & C. Route, Chattanooga, and 
representatives of the Southern Ry., the Florida East Coast Line and 
the Seaboai'd Air Line were all very kind to us. The purser on the steam- 
ship Mascotte of the P. & O. S. S. Co. was also very kind to us. In fact 
we met nothing but very best of treatment from the railway employees 
all along our way, and if we can ever be placed where we can return 
these favors we shall certainly deem it a great pleasure to do so. 

We want to especially thank Miss Wright, manager of the Foster 
information office on the second floor of L. S. Ayres' department store, 
Indianapolis, for her assistance in furnishing us with so much information 
that we found very valuable to us on our trip. "Ask Foster offices" are found 
in many cities and we can cheerfully recommend them to our friends who 
may be in search of travel information of any kind. Their information 
is given gratis. 



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